Chanel

Virginie Viard is looking to keep the house of Chanel young, fun, and steadfastly Parisian. With a set built to look like the iconic rooftops of Paris, the look was based on Nouvelle Vague or New Wave. Little hats, ultra feminine mini skirts, tweedy two piece suits with cropped pants, and some well-positioned denim brought the 50s look into the now. And plenty of logo dresses will please costumers who like to wear their Chanel loud and proud.

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Givenchy

Clare Waight Keller was all about the mix for Spring, citing, “fractal symmetries drawn from the botanical world entwine with a tough urban energy. From the blossoms of old-world Paris to the raw denim spirit of New York City.” That translated to leather trenches, floral gowns, volume, and street vibes. Those street vibes were most apparent in 90s denim, washed and distressed shorts, wide two-tone jeans and column skirts, the result of upcycling.

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Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli has won over even the most cynical fashion hearts. Who doesn’t fall in love all over again over dramatic, clean, pretty white poplin dresses while Frank Ocean croons Moon River over the loudspeakers? There were also bold neon hues on familiar dramatic silhouettes, some purple sparkles, white feathers, a black shorts suit on Kaia Gerber, and an intricate white gown that illicted gasps.

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Balenciaga

Demna’s Spring collection was all about power dressing, regardless of whether you’re bringing that power to the office, your art studio, or the playground. Bold shoulders are still the focus—on mini skirt suits, statement furs, and vinyl trenches. A velvet voluminous gown section with removable crinolines were a crowd favorite. But the most impactful moment in the blue room waswhat the show notes call “wearable ballroom dresses... to be worn in any setting.” Don’t mind if we do.

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Thom Browne

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Sacai

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Altuzarra

It was the hand-knit sweaters from his grandmother and mom that inspired Altuzarra for spring. The idea of family heirlooms and handmade treasures sent the designer exploring classic wardrobe pieces and knit crochet that could stand the test of time (and generation after generation). The crochet tops and dresses mimicked the bedspreads handmade by the designer’s grandmother. The shirt dresses were inspired by the striped shirts worn by Altuzarra’s father. His mother’s afghan doilies and granny-square blankets were reimagined as colorful sleeveless tops. Given fashion’s ongoing sustainability conversation, it was an important reminder that the truly special wardrobe pieces can (and should) be able to be passed down and treasured for generations to come.

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Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann has long mastered the art of androgynous style—and the designer’s Spring 2020 collection was no exception. The combined men and women’s show explored suiting (one of which was already worn by Timothy Chalamet), shorts, and red carpet-worthy gowns. The extreme cut-out tops and jackets sans anything underneath mirrored some of the more daring red carpet style as of late. But there were still more wearable pieces found in the blazers, leather pants, and polka dot dress that’s sure to be picked up as a fashion girl favorite come spring.

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Celine

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Nina Ricci

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Balmain

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Loewe

JW Anderson explored the ethereal side of his Loewe woman for Spring 2020, alluding to patrician elegance. Loewe's craft and construction is always at the focal-point of Anderson's collection, yet he creates pieces that real women want to wear. This season his nomadic woman gets in touch with a softer, romantic side, by way of guipure, chantily and marguerite lace in the form of sheer dresses with rectangular pannier skirts, a tunic and coordinating pants, as well as a babydoll gown.

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Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant is bringing booty shorts back. For Spring 2020, the French designer looked to a colorful mix of ultra teeny, ultra short shorts, styled with a myriad of strong-shouldered jackets. The colors were bright—with a mix of stripes, florals, and muted tie-dye prints thrown in, too. But the key takeaway was an overarching ode to the no pants look. Whether done in booty shorts or ultra mini skirts, it seems like the early 2000s are itching their way back once again.

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Off-White

Virgil Abloh had to sit out his latest Off-White runway show due to health reasons, but his creative vision made him feel like he was there in spirit this season. Titled ‘Meteor Shower,’ the collection was quite literally inspired by just that—as evidenced by the large holes left in leather pants, tops, blazers, and even the brand’s newest bag. According to show notes, the cosmic theme was meant "to illustrate a woman’s power, to show that her spirit is indestructible by natural forces.”

Abloh’s signature streetwear pieces were still there (albeit with a few extra holes), but it was the hoop-embellished necklines, buttery leather separates, and colorful gowns (including a hot pink finale number worn by Bella Hadid) that stood out most.

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Chloe

Is there anyone fashion people love to reference more than the illusive boho Parisian girl? She's been on hiatus with the onset of streetwear and '80s power shoulders, but designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi brought her back today. The designer called the collection, "An essential manifesto for the Chloé woman: a fundamental vision of femininity anchored in reality." She wears suits with interesting, sexy tops underneath, floral bustiers, floral dresses with cool leather belts. Face it, she's cool, but she's not afraid to be feminine too.

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Maison Margiela

Galliano is going back, way back—think two world wars ago—to garner inspiration for Spring 2020. There are references to Red Cross nurses, army jackets, his own take on camo, sailors and soldiers of the fashion kind. Is it a reminder of the worst times for men? A warning of where we could be headed? We can't be sure, but we do know the tailoring is done wonderfully.

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Rochas

Alessandro Dell’Acqua is back in the color game after a previous season of all-black looks. That meant explorations of red with burgundy, preppy pink with green, seafoam with black—and a reminder that sometimes an LBD is all a girl needs. Color seemed to be the main through line, though, on a generally haphazard look at a woman's wardrobe for the season.

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Lanvin

Lanvin is officially back, spinning their own dreamworld to enchant us, and enchanting it was. As editors huddled under umbrella's for the outdoor show in the rain, models lightened the mood as they made their way down the runway in cheerful prints, yellow checkerboard, and rainbow block prints on clothes that evoked a certain jet set style of the 1950s. Creative Director Bruno Sialelli drew inspiration the Little Nemo in Slumberland comic strip that began in 1905, and his childhood in the South of France, where nothing felt impossible. He noted Lee Radziwill and Babe Paley as inspirations. But it wasn't all about beach time, he also worked in more serious silhouettes like architecturally sculpted suits and accordion pleated tops and matching skirts.

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Christian Dior

For Spring, Maria Grazia Chiuri kept it in the family—taking inspiration from the house's founder's sister, Catherine Dior. It's not a great leap, looking at the show, to realize she was an avid gardner and fiercely independent before it was fashionable to be so. Charming floral prints, feathered jackets, and houndstooth mini dresses, paired with little gardening hats, served as a reminder from Chiuri to create our own "inclusive garden" and re-establish a balance between humans and the planet.

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Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello is staying within the codes of Rive Gauche and its particular melding of masculine-feminine, making it just a little modern, but also embracing that '70s realness. It may sound like a mouthful, but it's really quite simple—short shorts, high boots, gilded party dresses, Le Smoking tuxes and jumpsuits. It's the things girls want to wear, with some great uses of that well-known logo. Thank god it hasn't been redone in upper case Didot.

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Dries van Noten

In a true fashion nerd dream, each seat at today's Dries van Noten show came with a rose with a small label DVN*XCLX. Two design power houses—van Noten and Christian Lacroix—have reportedly been working together on the Spring 2020 collection for the past five months. The results were like a Dries meets Lacroix fever dream—polka dots, cropped jackets, feathers, more feathers, bold shoulders, prints, color, black and white. There's a lot to unpack here, but the collection is exuberant, it's maximalist yet polished, it's joyful—and we can all use a little bit of that right now.